Monday, January 3, 2011

Tibet, one year (nine) women, goats, green wine

 Tibetan New Year is coming, this is the most important Tibetan festivals of the year. Go on the road, everywhere can feel the deep sense of taste. This year is the Tibetan Year of the Pig. Golden pig represents wealth and happiness, indicates that Luck. hard for a year beginning of the year people want to them.
business is getting larger contractors Rinchen bought four whole sheep, during the festival in honor of him to take his business partner. hotelier good business built specifically for possession of a wealth of Qiema mm filled with grains of wheat, roasted barley, candy and sweet Naizha the bucket-type wooden box. and a few small sub-level to five hundred and forty monks to do with fried bread, worship the Buddha and Bodhisattvas, by the way is also about their own reward . pull three living Hyderabad only bought a few sheep's head, and he told me that a sheep's head that auspicious beginning of the year.
I asked Dan Burton, his family going to do the New Year. he said, because his mother had just died Soon, his family will not be as lively as in the past to the Chinese New Year, but years ago they would go to Gyantse Winter Fair. Cotton Dan said: Money can buy some more New Year. Fair usually do not see a lot of things. last year's Winter Fair, especially lively, and even several counties near the people to buy New Year special to Gyantse, Gyantse town a few street are selling things on, people packed could hardly move. Prefecture Song and Dance Ensemble have to take the foot of the hill were a big stage for the opening add to the fun fair performances, as well as county leaders speech. We have to go to the village. You must shoot ah! The opportunity is indeed rare. Fair in the first ten days at the Tibetan New Year, we all shoot well prepared for a special photographer to arrange a Tibetan song and dance performances. It will be since we started shooting from the contents of the summer the richest, most lively group of material. In addition, I intend to shoot at the fair to all the objects and crew members of a New Year gift to buy.
stands to reason that such a large trade fair requires a lot of preparation work, especially the stage with song and dance performances, should have started building my son. But only a week away from Cang Linian, but no cases of foot and nothing happened. the photographer to see a few times, came back to tell me that this game is the . I advised him to find out why not Gyangze Song and Dance Ensemble performed, the photographer did not expect a wry smile: This year's Winter Fair Dan Benton said there really is no less lively, neither the song and dance performances, there is no opening, nor I imagine the crowded scene. street only small traders have become more than usual stalls selling clothing shoes, hats, prayer flags, carpets, firecrackers, butter, yogurt, sweets, biscuits, fruit, Pulu (hand-woven wool fabrics), the Buddha Bodhisattva, Tibetan and Han Chinese pop music CD.
I Street Hyderabad encountered a dejected. He said that last year this time, passengers flocked to a day, to purchase the packages, he can earn more than eighty dollars a day, can pull this year to four or five people a day, earned less than ten. A shot of the cadres who help us. He muttered, does not make clear, saying only that may be out of security concerns, so there is no winter like last year, organized a large-scale mass activities.
I am very disappointed not because we did not take to the bustling downtown scene, but because all our subjects and Gyantse other people, are looking forward to the winter trade fair to send them some income, giving them rare items daily, but also to enable them to enjoy the festive fun. We had intended to purchase gifts at the fair hardcover mm snacks and candy, snacks, high-end clothing, beautiful fruit basket, the result is not satisfactory. I, while Pakistan and Master Li in Street spin in a long time, did not see anything special, but to my surprise, the price is much higher than usual, some even doubled.
! Have you watch the pepper, the usual seven dollars a pound, now risen to fifteen, and not to mention the beef. What is up. do not listen to me, also looking forward to the winter trade fair is organized, not like you expected. early listen to me, buy affordable things to give, will not have to now, want to not buy, expensive to buy another. people to buy more gifts. Farm doctors, Hyderabad, there are other subjects, they came to this fair, is what kind of mood do?
side bus looked at us disapprovingly, said: How many times, nothing not even think to buy beer on the line. ? edge Pakistan insists: > Finally, the three of us reached a compromise. Master Li picked butter, sugar, tea and rice; I bought oranges, apples, pears and bananas. Although I reluctantly agreed to buy wine bar side of the proposal, did not think him a mouth to Lhasa to buy thirty boxes of beer and cans of Budweiser beer. I thought the Pakistan side of a joke. know, it is not enough. , earth-shattering knock on the door woke us when I saw the side bar barefoot, leaning unsteadily walked in the door, his mouth still talking assured me that he could not mistake the work. Pemba was right, he never let me down. I have become accustomed to his booze.
in Gyantse, I often see groups of men and women sitting in the streets, mutual respect and highland barley wine or beer, drink and chat, sing a few words from time to time , sometimes smiling, greeting passers-by have a drink. cups barley warm sun shone dimly, and friends get together, they'll be satisfied. They do not care about the traffic coming and going, people, do not care around the flying dust and scraps of paper . In the morning we went out to work, from their side through; return at dusk, they are still there, drinking, talking, singing.
If you want to drink in the house, they on the tea. teahouse is very simple, no decoration generally only on the different furniture: tables and the kind of Tibetan long the box stool with backrest, guests sleepy or drunk, you can lie down and rest. Gyantse, a small tea house, usually only three or four tables . In Lhasa, Shigatse and one can see tea, as well as that greenhouse-style tea house, dozens of people crowded in the dim, smoke-filled barn. teahouse am selling sweet tea in the afternoon to sell beer. If hungry, can eat Roubao Zi noodles and Tibetan. Here, people pass each other with gossip and gossip.
I do not object to the side bar to drink tea, because for him, wine has become an essential life Enjoy. He frequented the clouds Chashe, week down there three or four nights spent there. go before he always said to get together with our subject, increase understanding and facilitate the future work, but let me reimbursement of the drinks for him. can be learned the next day I asked him what he is often hesitant, tell Road is unknown, and even invited who have forgotten, because they always drunk. Pemba came back the night often inarticulate singing a popular Tibetan songs:
Lhasa bar ah what people have,
is no love of mine.
I would not have drunk a glass of glasses,
because we are big drinker.
Tibetan two days, we took Don mountain village festival, said Pakistani side has finally seen all the is the place where gods live, two miles from the village. where vision, surrounded by fields and sweeping. God poking above the tree base, tied above a block blue, white, yellow, green, red streamer. in the village people dedicated to the gods of sacrifice is also very simple: roasted barley, and pine branches. lit sticks of roasted barley and pine scent and the curl of smoke emitted mountain to tell people to worship it. wind streamers move, the people prayer broadcast to a vast, distant land. and then we stood in a row, the tsampa into the air, loudly shouting: Dayton once poured a small cup of barley wine, with the index finger dipped in the wine to air missile three times mm Respect, Respect, the worship, and then drained. After that, they can enjoy drinking. < br> into several circles around everyone sat down around a dozen people. a woman got up and poured barley wine for everyone.
relief under irrigation, Dan Gordon three cups. wine poured into the Han in front of photographers Cheow Tong, He politely declined, and said even film for.
camera, want to use this as a cover, and the woman shot on the TV drama.
the woman not only failed to escape, but staring at the camera, bright open throat singing, this time with the Tibetan language:
Sincerely, a glass of barley wine,
it fine barley wine,
I only wish you do drink,
do not do sometime.
her over, and then cup your hands in front end to Cheow Tong. can be According to shirk the East or to find a variety of reasons, but keep in mind the noble words Pemba: Do not drink to start, or have been drinking down. is sometime in the crowd scattered over a woman take the lead a handful of roasted barley, and he immediately became shining white snowman, the lens has a layer of roasted barley to dip. pocket, grabbed the woman toward the two to spread the roasted barley, and I also took the opportunity to toast the young woman grabbed the tsampa lavished. This move saved him and I, we escape to drink, because we happily playing the tsampa battle, and laugh with each throw. I am simply beside a man picked up the collar of my pocket to the back yard. a war after all completely different, a shining white on the ground, men and women have become snowman. < br> I think Tibetans have a saying that the wine market is like a battlefield, in this disowned. At this moment I really did not recognize anyone, and completely intoxicated with joy in this.
kick down the , then all drinking binge. From this point on toast but not Monastic, we can stay out.
their dice. This is a Tibetan game. a dice, a pile of shells, can the two people play, you can play three. people have to play nine copper coins, the game aims to opponents back to base camp, so that their shells are gone. to play to the intoxicated Department, the deafening noise.
one or two Council After that, I began to understand the rules, and that the real purpose of the game is to drink. If you throw two dice is the investment and who have to drink, because the second is a lucky number, he can vote once; if it is three points, penalty opponents must drink. If the foul or say the wrong thing, they have to Monastic. Of course, if you lose, but to even drink three cups.
Dayton sat next to him I asked Dan, how the village had Tibetan New Year paintings. He said the death was either at home, he would go to various stopping by.
; to do each have to drink? the needle, used bar you. I'd rather drink bar is not willing to endure. have door to door looking for. drunk. But I do not often get drunk. I have nothing to drink so much. East behind the woman said, name, each person must point to the mm, first his mother, sister, two brothers, and then the children and grandchildren. Everyone had to report back to him, or he shouted the name of anxious, over and over again, shouting to the dozen. ;
Dan Burton seems to be the biggest drinker Rinzin home. Why?
with comfort. especially now, and Everybody a drink, taste wonderful. A woman came out from the waves, Maoruo angel, all men are wooed. she died, her burial place to grow from a grass called Menace. Tibetan barley wine brewing when the first is to use the Menace make koji. Once the old man interrupted the opposite. He cloudy eyes red, skin deep, is almost like a maroon robe, showing his life he drank a lot of wine. I can not remember the words of immortals. stopped searching for the words from memory, and then continued: ;
I live by this fan. Later I was the most popular Tashi Phuntsok, a Tibetan writer, the book, found a , note that the immortals and tea cents before the debate in Zao, Zao distinguish the two sides so that one is better. immortals, there are many wonderful words of the sentence:
your tears, I heal your sorrow.
I open the key to mute,
mind I was smart.
I helped the Warriors wipe out invaders,
I lead through the barren hills and remote places coward.
exposure hypocrite I am the light,
I am a wise man say the gift of epigram.
not me, who completed the world's great achievements?
tea cents also talk too wise:
I was the darling of eminent monks, thousands of their loved one in my ;
drink me they Guomuchengsong, intelligence increase, lust subsided.
I drink the king,
I was a heavy hammer crushing ignorance,
I was lazy zigzag cut.
Today, the Brewmaster prevailed. the weather is fine, the pressure in Gyantse ash cloud over the winter disappears, the sky pure, such as washing, bright as a mirror. the sun shine, golden warm in the sun bathed everything seems to spring has arrived. Only the wind has mischievously play with. but once in Washington's eyes, this is a good sign: the gods will be more clearly hear their prayers. I am sure, if the weather is cold, as is a good reason to drink.
Soon, three women have been sent home to take barley wine. the others began to sing.
Tibetans often say, drinking and singing are twin sisters. there is no singing accompanied only cold water, highland barley wine . I do not know what they sing, speak, soothing voice, melody, hypnotic, like a lullaby. I do not have people translate as usual. I know that their pure melodious songs, as I in Tibet heard the voice of all the beautiful: the temple praying monks, when the house singing La brush, built the guitar hidden bombs, the central highland barley harvest once were, and when the Dayton laughter. Today, people's song is a tribute to the gods, singers were also intoxicated. They sing and moving, singing from the bottom of the heart, as if the natural springs flowing in the stream.
most amazing is the Yin Jiuge, those clever lyrics and tunes from the composer seems to be wine God ignite the imagination. people began to sing br> endless song, a man stopped, another person connected, calm like a barley wine flowing down from the throat. Suddenly I seem to have heard from the lyrics of . I asked the Pakistan side. He listened, nodded: > drive away the darkness of my heart.
forget the depth of the bottle,

only care about whether the sweet barley wine such as nectar,
Qinglie mellow worthy of the Three Treasures of the lips and teeth.
wine how the integration of Tibetan Buddhism? I would like to know. I thought that drinking is one of the monks of the five precepts, the other four ring is killing, stealing, immorality, lying. I asked Dan Gordon. He drank a glass of wine, shrugged his shoulders. this time I asked Dan. but according to his idea of humility, God almighty, how much to drink wine god unabated.
the heap have a good young man, I see Rinzin home several times. He asked me to have not been to Lhasa N'Zaji Temple. temple dedicated to the goddess of wealth Secretary wine and King Kong yoga woman, she is the protection of Tibet's most one edge of one God. I nodded and told him that I've been .
wine, three to six hundred dollar wine has. in the temple, you have to queue up for reference. goddess shrines in the glass for years, looks a bit scary, bad cop Tuyan, tongue hanging out of the mouth. walk in with his forehead touch her, she will bless you. and then handed the bottle so the lamas there. He took the bottle, if it is barley wine to pour into a bucket, if it is white wine to pour another bucket; if the wine expensive to put it aside! barley wine is not good save, so they give it away or drained. I dropping the bottles and cans to help them. They just do me Gansha. finished job, I can open a drink, drink drink how much how much home can take as many with the number. make a lot of money. If there are gods bless, maybe I drank too can make a fortune. . He told me, when Guru Padmasambhava fell monsters, ghosts tame, and did not allow them to give up worldly habits, including alcohol. Maybe that Guru Padmasambhava, the Tibetan people if deprived of the greatest happiness, it is difficult there are so many followers of the . According to legend, Guru Padmasambhava in itself good booze, five hundred a drink the altar wine. one of Tibet's most ancient Nyingma sect followers to allow alcohol.
Gelugpa that the precepts of the other sects are not strictly . Grew in Tibetan means Tibet's most important reform in history. Gelugpa so quickly attracted many followers, dominated the life of Tibet's religious and political.
However, the Gelugpa monks seemed to have not escaped the temptation of highland barley wine . the early twentieth century, Japanese monks sneaked into the mouth of Tibet, Tashilhunpo for a few months. where the monks go against the precepts, to his disappointment. estuary specific records of their drinking habits. drinking, the temple has established a rule: from the outside back of the monks to accept the Lama Temple guard at the entrance examination and smell the breath, and if the smell of his mouth a little wine, and immediately punished. some cunning to cover up alcohol Lama, after drinking, eating a lot of garlic, garlic mouth full of thick, get away with such an approach. Tibet had heard a story: a woman with a goat and a pot of barley wine was approached by a Lama, with his body, sheep and wine to lure him. Lama After careful consideration, said to himself: , that would be guilty of the first commandment; I can not touch a woman, that would be guilty of the second commandment; drinking lightest sins. and women also sleep a night. a lot of people know this story, but it can not resist the temptation of highland barley wine.
people drinking, singing, dancing, carnival more than six hours, the women were sent back to the village two get barley wine. it was getting late, the sky suddenly dark down, an instant they wind comes up, a cloud of dust blown into the warmth of my body clean. I'm shivering, upset himself to be fooled by sunshine before a return . But others seemed indifferent to the raid from the cold. Some people drunk stagger, did not notice; some people are still kept on singing. who do not want to stop the carnival.
we decided to leave, they The song and laughter will continue.
We drove back to Gyantse. on the road, I think by Pakistan from Cameron Village, an experience to Gyantse. only three fifteen minutes by car, take the CMB, it took three and a half hours . Some people went to work near the village, cars will stop for him. no one seems to mind, no one worried. all from the robe and pulled out the cup, poured from a thermos bottle or plastic bottle highland barley wine. even the children are also followed to drink I heard that they drink at school. Some people even said to me, wine than water safety, kids sleepy, not misbehaving in the classroom, the teacher had peace of mind. Some mothers even feed the baby to the arms highland barley wine, so the baby will stop crying, quiet sleep. I heard that drivers were not driving, he also drank a little bit tipsy, as if do not care. He even likes the company of so many drinking buddy. In his view, the time not money, life is fun.
We were also wine surrendered. festival gods on the way back, we decided to go to rural medical clinics to the New Year Ram. her small stature, quiet and peaceful, and looked like a monk and his attitude as a monk as kind, compassionate. but she is very happy today, half the man with the quiet past. She picked up a bucket from the table, a big scoop, let us drink it directly, each three-scoop. edge Pakistan themselves, but according to the East is very difficult for the photographer, asked if he could do it by the side of Pakistan. But this did not work there at the Ram. Ram called her husband, Tashi used a needle from the next door, said solemnly: Here we have a custom: who do not drink to use the needle. Dan Burton is a joke.
next afternoon, according to the East a little bit dizzy. He had never tasted so many highland barley wine, although according to the standard he told Palestinian side did not drink the same. Today we are going to contractors Rinchen New Year, I know people in Gyantse, the few who did not drink, he is one of them. I think the right gift to his son with candy, a box of oranges sent to his family.

and the Palestinian side to argue, but still a little worried. Pemba tells a son of my Rinchen Lausanne things out.
few years ago, Dan Dayton truck rental Rinchen, Lausanne to help loading. He drunk, and a fight, a knife stabbed in the chest of a man eight knife, killed the man had. Lausanne sentenced two decades, is still serving prison in Lhasa. how do we give him sent home wine do?
to my surprise, to Rinchen home and found the table in his living room filled with barley wine impressively put out a big brass pot, and a large row of Budweiser beer.
Ren Green put out his tongue to greet us, this is the way of respect Tibetans. side bus and the driver handed him our gift, and he was pleased to accept, and introduced us to other guests mm his two business partners, and his father.
Qiongda his young wife nodded at us and then took us to the closet a few cups, each cup is filled up with beer. I admire her a green gown very beautiful mm a bit like a men's robe. her holding the cup to me, revealing a beautiful hands.
our crew as the Gyantse her first beauty. She does have a lovable face, long and shapely, a pair of almond eyes big and black. She wore a delicate silver necklace today, the top encrusted amber and lapis lazuli, Chen De cheeks brilliance, brilliant.
Rinchen son is staggering swing around the table, get caught mischievously tables on things. chasing patrol son Rinchen hear my praise, immediately grin. child is very beautiful, like a father; Rinchen child standing behind the tall handsome, looks somewhat like a tanned Westerners laugh his white teeth shining. He also dressed in festive costumes, one with a beautiful Chinese-style black leather fur trim.
Rinchen greeted us drink. I want a can of coke, drank a Budweiser Pemba . Rinchen, like most people do not insist on urging people to drink, I was relieved. Qiongda cola filling the cup to pass me. I asked her the house are satisfied mm we took the house renovation process. She said: has been installed, I show you around. dark colorful flowers and birds painted on the wall. large light-colored wooden beds, cream bed nearly reached the roof, ceiling, golden chandelier hanging crystal chandeliers, chandeliers and luxury bed and literally echoes. said What is good? Rinchen him that the best buy in all of Tibet, he gave her.
Rinchen business partners have gone to see us from the inside out, and side bar are chatting with him stopped the thread of her conversation, eager to ask me: house is completely different. people's houses are mud brick, painted lime. His house is a stone made, very spacious, thirteen room, a get home to more than enough. home only his father, stepmother, two brothers, but also have their children. half the room empty, and they lived in a house decorated according the traditional style, very charming. youngest brother was not at home, work year round in northern Tibet. Rinchen leave the house now, and beautiful and just Qiongda baby in a separate portal here.
watching Rinchen, a satisfied smile, I am also happy for them, ask them how over the years to prepare.
He turned to Pemba said, But you can see, I'll give guests a barley wine and beer. This is the Tibetan custom, as we used to eat roasted barley barley wine bubble. The new thing is to drink barley wine first, give us good luck . a Budweiser. , one of the hard white hair, is listen to us talk with relish.
Rinchen vividly tells the truth. I have been looking for Tibetans drink spending data, but not found. judge from the circumstances around them, and that not a small sum. Pemba often asked me for a hundred dollars a night out drinking. one hundred twenty-five enough to drink three bottles. Without this What is another way get drinks. He was very honest and said he was Rinzin affordable homes highland barley wine is no exception, with the central case every day for four kilograms of barley wine, barley than their home to eat even more.
, of course, consume, not just money, but also life. because of drinking for teenagers killed in Lausanne, he has been wasted in prison ten years time. I have heard the tragedy occurred because of alcohol. Pemba in our shooting, two to go to friend's funeral, they all died in a fight after drinking. for us to repair the furnace said the blacksmith, and his brother had just died of alcohol poisoning. to help us clean up the popular red wine crazy uncle Caesar, almost to a woman playing handicap to to be sentenced. A few weeks ago, Ram doctor's visits back to her husband at night, driving motorcycle fell into a ditch. Lahm told us: . Now I still clearly remember the words of Puncog. Phuntsok witnessed an abrupt end the lives of too many, too many families were split up, too many parents lost their son, too many children lose father. And all this because of alcohol. In Tibet, the price is too high to enjoy life was. But perhaps nothing can stop them drinking, to stop them from enjoying life. Tibetan people joy was born, and for the joy of death.
looked Rinchen, his beautiful wife and son of giggling, and I can not help but think , how different the course of human life, ah, I really like the enigmatic. The men do not drink, take a look at his achievements it. fourteen years old began learning a craft, and later became a skilled mason on the construction site and carvers. He Each division of the money she saved, and soon became a labor contractor on their own. men Shui Yebie want to fool his workers, who did a bad job can not escape his eyes. His fame sounded each day, hands there piling works, Gyantse is his half of the Tibetan architecture built, and he will always be a carefree look.
very happy today, Rinchen laugh, I guess this year he certainly made a lot of money. He expanded the contracting team, and now more than one hundred men workers; heard of another very successful businessman formed a partnership; also preparing to set up construction company; got the first government contract, The big project is the repair of an irrigation canal, the works ...

No comments:

Post a Comment